If you’re new to body jewelry, captive rings can feel a little confusing at first. They look simple, but choosing the right size makes a huge difference in comfort, appearance, and healing.
So I put together this easy guide to help you understand how captive rings work and how to pick the right size for your piercing—without guessing or feeling overwhelmed.
What Is a Captive Ring?
A captive ring (also called a CBR or ball closure ring) is a circular piece of jewelry with a small bead or gem that “snaps” into place.You’ll see captive rings used in:
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nostril piercings
- septum piercings
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eyebrow piercings
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ear piercings (helix, rook, daith, and more)
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nipple piercings
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navel piercings
They’re stylish, secure, and available in countless designs—from plain metal to sparkling gems.
How Captive Ring Sizing Works
Captive rings have two measurements you need to pay attention to:
1. The Gauge (Thickness of the Jewelry)
This tells you how thick the metal is.
Gauge is extremely important—your piercing hole only fits the size it was pierced with.
Common gauge sizes:
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20G (0.8 mm) — nostril piercings
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18G (1.0 mm) — nostril or ear piercings
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16G (1.2 mm) — lip, helix, tragus, daith, rook
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14G (1.6 mm) — navel and nipple piercings
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12G and thicker — stretched or specialty piercings
Never size down without a piercer. It can irritate your piercing.
2. The Diameter (How Big the Ring Is)
Diameter is the distance across the ring from inside edge to inside edge.
This is the measurement that determines how tight or loose the ring looks.
General starting points:
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Nostril: 8 mm – 10 mm
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Helix: 8 mm – 12 mm
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Tragus: 6 mm – 8 mm
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Daith: 8 mm – 10 mm
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Lip: 8 mm – 10 mm
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Navel: 10 mm – 12 mm
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Nipple: 12 mm – 16 mm
Your perfect size depends on your anatomy and the angle of your piercing.
How to Choose the Right Captive Ring Size
Here’s the simplest way to pick your size like a pro.
Step 1: Match the Gauge to Your Piercing
If you don’t remember what gauge you were pierced with, your options are:
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check your current jewelry
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contact your piercer
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look at your aftercare card (if you still have it)
Matching the gauge prevents irritation and keeps the piercing healthy.
Step 2: Pick the Diameter Based on Your Anatomy
If you want:
A snug, close-to-the-skin fit:
→ Choose a smaller diameter.
A looser, more open look:
→ Choose a larger diameter.
If you’re unsure, start with the standard diameter for your piercing type.
Step 3: Consider the Bead Size
Most captive rings come with a bead that fits the ring perfectly.
But if you want a larger gem or a smaller bead for a delicate look, you can swap it—as long as the bead matches your gauge.
Best Materials for Captive Rings
If you want the safest options for everyday wear, stick with:
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Titanium
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Surgical steel
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14K/18K gold (best for sensitive skin)
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Niobium
Avoid mystery-metal jewelry, especially if you’re prone to irritation.
When to Switch to a Captive Ring
If your piercing is new, talk to your piercer before changing jewelry.
Once your piercing is fully healed, a captive ring is a great option for comfort and style
Once you know your gauge and your ideal diameter, shopping becomes so much easier—and you’ll avoid irritation, tight fits, and wasted money.
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